Shrimp's Stang Overhaul - CarForum.net - Car Forums, Automotive News and Community

Shrimpykins · 01-08-2010, 09:36 PM

UPDATE TO ORIGINAL POST

I've had this car since late 2009 now. Got it paid for early 2014 finally. List of mods is below.

Steeda Ultra-lite Series 1 18x9.5 low-pressure forged aluminum wheels (they don't even make these anymore)
Koni STR.T Dampers
Eibach Sportline Lowering Springs
Steeda HD Upper Strut Mounts
Steeda Billet Alu. LCA w/ roto joint
BMR LCA Relocation Bracket
Steeda Adj. UCA
Steeda Upper Chassis Mount for UCA
Steeda Bell Housing Spherical Bearing
Stack Racing Front Strut Tower Brace
Fays2 Watts Link (Single best upgrade yet)
Roush CAI (Tuned for 93 Octane)
Full synthetic fluid swap (Oil, tranny fluid, rear-end fluid, brake fluid)
Brembo 4-piston 14" Front Brake Kit
Baer 14" Rear Brake Upgrade w/ 2-piece rotors
Strano Front and Rear Adjustable Swaybars
Strano Front Swaybar End-link
Goodridge Stainless Steel Brake Lines

*Kenny McCormick* · 01-08-2010, 09:48 PM

Ooooo, sounds awesome.

Do make sure to flood us with pix as you do the build.

And videos of the test run after it's done

**lautinjr** · 01-09-2010, 03:58 AM

You do know to run DOT 5 you most flush the system down completely with denatured alcohol and then flush that out with DOT 5. Any DOT 3/4 still left in the system will contaiminate it and cause issue's. Also DOT 5 is Required to change every year or 12K because it doesn't clean the system of contaminents like dot 3/4 does.

I suggest running DOT 4 Valvoline Synthetic brake fluid it has the same bioling pionts as Dot 5 but last longer and can be mixed with other fluids.

Shrimpykins · 01-09-2010, 11:44 AM

It may not be street legal (not really sure if it is or not) but I am going to use Wilwood Hi-temp racing fluid.

Probably just change it out every month to take it to the track.

**Mike** · 01-09-2010, 12:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shrimpykins

It may not be street legal (not really sure if it is or not) but I am going to use Wilwood Hi-temp racing fluid.

Probably just change it out every month to take it to the track.

You'd be better off using the stuff lautin said. I don't think that's worth it at all. Flushing brake fluid is a decent amount of work to do every month. Do you have access to a pressure bleeder for the master cylinder?

Shrimpykins · 01-09-2010, 12:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wierdo124

You'd be better off using the stuff lautin said. I don't think that's worth it at all. Flushing brake fluid is a decent amount of work to do every month. Do you have access to a pressure bleeder for the master cylinder?

Aye, and a lift rack.

Shrimpykins · 01-10-2010, 05:43 PM

In transit to me: Steeda Ultra-Lite Silver 18x9.5" set of 4 - 21.6 lbs ea, large enough to fit a big brake kit if needed, going to be run on all 4 corners.

Searching for a good deal and soon to be purchased: Nitto NT01 275/35/18 Tire. Though I may go with a 275/40/18.

cluffenstein · 01-10-2010, 06:11 PM

Steeda has some nice stuff, I want to pick up their short throw shifter for my focus.

Shrimpykins · 01-10-2010, 09:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cluffenstein

Steeda has some nice stuff, I want to pick up their short throw shifter for my focus.

I am looking at their Tri-Ax shifter replacment for the stock transmission. It helps with not missing gears as well as shorter throws and an adjustable height.

I was going to buy some front and rear strut braces from them but I think I can fab some up myself from some crome-moly steel just like that have, double braced in the front and single braced in the back.

I also hear the S197 suffers from bad wheel hop on hard shifts but I think it's people mistaking the rear tires breaking loose for wheel hop, going to see once I get the track tires and get it out to the track. Next track day is late February I believe.

Not sure what lowering kit I want to get yet or even if I need a kit or just some compressors. I plan on lowering the back 1.5" and the front 1" which should even out the car.

I may need to upgrade the LCA's as well. I found a great forum with a couple of patrons there that strictly race with their S197, some of who have won several races in their class. They have great advice and I have been learning a lot.

cluffenstein · 01-10-2010, 09:32 PM

I need to drop my assend, its WAY too high. and the Tri-Ax is the same name that my shifter is under. what trans do you have in your stang? MTX75?

01-08-2010, 09:36 PM	#1
Shrimpykins Vroom Vroom Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: In the engine bay Posts: 847 Rep: 42	Shrimp's Stang/Garage Overhaul UPDATE TO ORIGINAL POST I've had this car since late 2009 now. Got it paid for early 2014 finally. List of mods is below. Steeda Ultra-lite Series 1 18x9.5 low-pressure forged aluminum wheels (they don't even make these anymore) Koni STR.T Dampers Eibach Sportline Lowering Springs Steeda HD Upper Strut Mounts Steeda Billet Alu. LCA w/ roto joint BMR LCA Relocation Bracket Steeda Adj. UCA Steeda Upper Chassis Mount for UCA Steeda Bell Housing Spherical Bearing Stack Racing Front Strut Tower Brace Fays2 Watts Link (Single best upgrade yet) Roush CAI (Tuned for 93 Octane) Full synthetic fluid swap (Oil, tranny fluid, rear-end fluid, brake fluid) Brembo 4-piston 14" Front Brake Kit Baer 14" Rear Brake Upgrade w/ 2-piece rotors Strano Front and Rear Adjustable Swaybars Strano Front Swaybar End-link Goodridge Stainless Steel Brake Lines Last edited by Shrimpykins; 11-09-2014 at 05:30 PM.

01-08-2010, 09:48 PM	#2
Kenny McCormick Spah sappin' mah susp! Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Earth...I think Posts: 3,271 Rep: 96	Ooooo, sounds awesome. Do make sure to flood us with pix as you do the build. And videos of the test run after it's done __________________ Tired Iron ain't got no time to wear out... My rigs: 1985 Ford F150 \| 4x2 \| 300ci OHV inline six \| 4-speed OD manual \| 310K \| No power brakes \| Running 100% - It hasn't driven this good in 15 years! 1984 Ford F150 \| 4x2 \| 300ci six \| granny four \| 3.55 rear end \| 210K \| Brakes shot. Rear drums are doing most of the work. Not fit to drive due to that. 1997 Ford Explorer XLT \| 4.0L Vulcan V6 \| 5-speed automatic \| shift-on-the-fly 4WD \| 210,000 miles \| Running 95% - Needs brakes on all four corners + bald tires 1989 Ford F150 \| 300cid six...again \| 5-speed \| 4x4 \| 160K \| Needs brakes done as well. Oi!

01-09-2010, 03:58 AM	#3
lautinjr Now accepting bribes. Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Currently Las Vegas Posts: 4,311 Rep: 193	You do know to run DOT 5 you most flush the system down completely with denatured alcohol and then flush that out with DOT 5. Any DOT 3/4 still left in the system will contaiminate it and cause issue's. Also DOT 5 is Required to change every year or 12K because it doesn't clean the system of contaminents like dot 3/4 does. I suggest running DOT 4 Valvoline Synthetic brake fluid it has the same bioling pionts as Dot 5 but last longer and can be mixed with other fluids. __________________ Please help reduce our mini van population and wear condoms!

01-09-2010, 11:44 AM	#4
Shrimpykins Vroom Vroom Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: In the engine bay Posts: 847 Rep: 42	It may not be street legal (not really sure if it is or not) but I am going to use Wilwood Hi-temp racing fluid. Probably just change it out every month to take it to the track. __________________ 2009 S197 Mustang GT/CS

01-10-2010, 05:43 PM	#7
Shrimpykins Vroom Vroom Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: In the engine bay Posts: 847 Rep: 42	In transit to me: Steeda Ultra-Lite Silver 18x9.5" set of 4 - 21.6 lbs ea, large enough to fit a big brake kit if needed, going to be run on all 4 corners. Searching for a good deal and soon to be purchased: Nitto NT01 275/35/18 Tire. Though I may go with a 275/40/18. __________________ 2009 S197 Mustang GT/CS Last edited by Shrimpykins; 01-11-2010 at 07:46 AM.

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Shrimp's Stang Overhaul