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Unread 09-25-2010, 03:31 PM   #21
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Good job so far, I think if you slap some new paint/wheels on it, it'll look sexeh.
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Unread 09-25-2010, 04:30 PM   #22
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Nice little project car, the big three update is a good thing to do. It's on my list to do whenever I get free time. I plan on going 0 or 2 gauge wire.
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Unread 09-25-2010, 04:49 PM   #23
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lol and to think I'm doing great with 8ga wire going to my starter...
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1985 Ford F150 | 4x2 | 300ci OHV inline six | 4-speed OD manual | 310K | No power brakes | Running 100% - It hasn't driven this good in 15 years!

1984 Ford F150 | 4x2 | 300ci six | granny four | 3.55 rear end | 210K | Brakes shot. Rear drums are doing most of the work. Not fit to drive due to that.
1997 Ford Explorer XLT | 4.0L Vulcan V6 | 5-speed automatic | shift-on-the-fly 4WD | 210,000 miles | Running 95% - Needs brakes on all four corners + bald tires
1989 Ford F150 | 300cid six...again | 5-speed | 4x4 | 160K | Needs brakes done as well. Oi!

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Unread 09-25-2010, 05:54 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cs_maan View Post
Good job so far, I think if you slap some new paint/wheels on it, it'll look sexeh.
It's all on my list of plans . Funds are so tight right now, the car is slacking on updates as of now. I've got more to finish uploading to this site. But nothing on paint and wheels yet.

Quote:
Originally Posted by xXxALLANxXx View Post
Nice little project car, the big three update is a good thing to do. It's on my list to do whenever I get free time. I plan on going 0 or 2 gauge wire.
I eventually plan on going to 2/0 on the Big 3, and 2/0 to the trunk. If you stick around on this site long enough, you'll see why .

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Originally Posted by Kenny McCormick View Post
lol and to think I'm doing great with 8ga wire going to my starter...
Well, to be fair...your truck doesn't really require much power. Although going to 4ga would be advisable honestly. Most cars are stock 4ga.
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Unread 09-29-2010, 08:02 PM   #25
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Default 03-24-2010 Update!

Alright, so a very quick update today regarding the electrical updates from yesterday.

Before my big 3 upgrade, my alternator was testing out "bad". I was putting out 20a at idle, and 30a at 2k RPM. My battery never passed 12.2v. When my system hit, I would drop as low as 8v in the trunk, and my amps would kick off.

Now....
At idle, I'm putting out 39a with almost no load. At 2k RPM, I'm putting out 79a. This is out of a 65a alternator mind you!!!

Voltage wise, all idle testing.....
Under the hood, I sit at 12.8v with the car off. Car on and idle, 14.6v. In the trunk (car on and idle), I'm at 14.2v. With the system going, I drop down to 11.2v in the trunk, and 12.9v under the hood.

So as you can see, doing that big 3 upgrade made a HUGE difference to my charging system. I mean c'mon!!! I've got almost 80a out of a 65a alternator, just by upgrading my wiring!!! And no, my voltage regulators are NOT going out. They were kicking on and off during the test....as is normal.
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  • Pioneer 1" Dome Tweeters (Door)
  • Pioneer Premier REV 6.5" Rear Speakers
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Unread 09-29-2010, 08:03 PM   #26
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Default 04-20-2010 Update!

Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackOmega
I think there's something more wrong with it if it's actually rubbing on the fender. Like I said, get a knuckle complete with wheel bearing from a scrap yard. While you probably wouldn't be able to do a bearing by yourself since you need a press, but swapping out a knuckle is relatively easy. It's just nuts and bolts, which I'm sure you can handle. I could even help you with it as long as you provide pics.
Actually, we now have an update. For the better .

Went to a local junkyard yesterday. Talked with the guy there, evidentally he's got a shop at his house. He's getting ready to leave the junkyard, and go into auto repair and body work on his own. He's got hydraulic lifts, presses, paint booth, everything . He told me, $30 labor, and the job will be done .

So he pulled the entire spindle off a parts car there at the junkyard for me ($45 IF it fits). I hobbled my car out to his house. He pulled it all apart, threw my brakes on there. Things were going good. My old bearing is DEFINITELY shot. Spin it real good, it goes for about 5 rotations and stops.

Long story short, the junkyard ones don't fit. They're too small of all things!

So, I just bought a new wheel bearing a few minutes ago. $30+$6 shipping at a local chain and gear shop. Coyo is the brand (dunno much about bearings myself). It'll be here tomorrow afternoon.

The guy in question has the tools to replace just the bearing. Replacing the whole spindle would have been 10x easier, but he said he doesn't mind. He told me $30 to do the job (labor), and he still says he'll stick by it. He's not even charging me for the 2 hours labor from yesterday, because it didn't fix the car.

So by tomorrow night (probably somewhat late), my car will be in 100% driveable condition again .

Thanks for the boneyard idea BO. That's what got me talking to the guy in the first place. I went down there to follow your advice, and found him. And since I'm not comfortable doing something that serious, I asked if he could help. And sure enough, he said he would .

By the way, if you couldn't tell, I found my new mechanic. He's VERY reasonable. He also quoted me $150 TOTAL to replace my timing belt. That's HALF the price of the next cheapest place. And he definitely seems like he knows what he's doing.
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My current project:
  • 1987 Honda Prelude 2.0 SI
  • Dual Mechless Head Unit (yeah, its Dual )
  • Kicker KS5250 Door Speakers
  • Pioneer 1" Dome Tweeters (Door)
  • Pioneer Premier REV 6.5" Rear Speakers
  • Alpine 2x MRP-M650 (one per sub)/ MRP-T220
  • Big 3 with 2 Gauge

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Unread 09-29-2010, 08:07 PM   #27
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Default 05-02-2010 Update!

Alright, so today has been a horrible day . I was pulled over this morning for my windshield being "illegal". Even though it isn't obstructing the driver's side view (which is what WOULD make it illegal). The police officer had been following me for about 20 blocks. So I KNOW that she ran my plates. She probably found out that I've been paying on a "No Insurance" ticket for 2 years, and assumed that I still don't have any. Well, she was right .

So long story kept really short, she "said" that she pulled me over for my windshield, but stuck me with another no insurance ticket. This is costing me $550 . She also said I have to put in my new windshield (which I have, just isn't installed yet), I have to fix my tail lights, and my headlights needed replaced because my right one died last night.

So...for the update .

I bought some Sylvania XtraVision lights at Wal Mart. I'll be pointing them later tonight, but they're installed right now. Supposedly some of the better head lights out there. Also, in the picture below, you can see the crack in my windshield. It does NOT interfere with the driver's view at ALL. She just used that as an excuse .



Now the police officer told me that I needed to fix my tail light (had a hole about 1" in diameter, and wasn't actually in the light itself). So...Autozone!!! I bought a OEM tail light fix kit. Didn't turn out half bad. It was either $12.99 for this kit, or $6.99 for red tape. I figured this kit might keep me from having to buy a junk yard tail light later . Here's the pics .



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My current project:
  • 1987 Honda Prelude 2.0 SI
  • Dual Mechless Head Unit (yeah, its Dual )
  • Kicker KS5250 Door Speakers
  • Pioneer 1" Dome Tweeters (Door)
  • Pioneer Premier REV 6.5" Rear Speakers
  • Alpine 2x MRP-M650 (one per sub)/ MRP-T220
  • Big 3 with 2 Gauge

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Unread 09-29-2010, 08:08 PM   #28
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Default 05-05-2010 Update!

Alright, well today I got my car insurance started. Not really part of working on the car, but applies to my last update. Going to court to fight my ticket or explain what happened. Hopefully the ticket will be reduced or dropped.

I went through a local company called "Whitehead Insurance". I had to pay $122.25 as a down payment (first month), and my monthly premium is $58.35. Overall, I don't think I did too terrible . That covers me for basic liability AND uninsured motorist .
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My current project:
  • 1987 Honda Prelude 2.0 SI
  • Dual Mechless Head Unit (yeah, its Dual )
  • Kicker KS5250 Door Speakers
  • Pioneer 1" Dome Tweeters (Door)
  • Pioneer Premier REV 6.5" Rear Speakers
  • Alpine 2x MRP-M650 (one per sub)/ MRP-T220
  • Big 3 with 2 Gauge

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Unread 09-29-2010, 08:09 PM   #29
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Default 05-07-2010 Update!

Well today was a pretty decent day! Got a brand new windshield installed . $147.03 total cost. They also included new wipers in on the cost too . I'm soo happy. I can actually see when I'm driving into the sun!!!

Here's what my OLD windshield looked like:






Now here's my NEW Wiper (just took a shot of one, the other is identical ):



And finally, the new windshield!!!!:




The tape around the window can come off as early as tomorrow afternoon. They also told me that I have to wait a few days before bumping the system. And I also have to be VERY careful when shutting the doors for a few days. They said that I can possibly break the seal if too much pressure is put on it.

Also, I was PLANNING on going through the car wash and getting her detailed. But again, the glass shop told me not to do so. As I guess the pressure from the car wash stuff might possibly break the seal. So I guess washing and detailing will come Monday or Tuesday .

Enjoy! As always, more to come as soon as funds mature enough .
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My current project:
  • 1987 Honda Prelude 2.0 SI
  • Dual Mechless Head Unit (yeah, its Dual )
  • Kicker KS5250 Door Speakers
  • Pioneer 1" Dome Tweeters (Door)
  • Pioneer Premier REV 6.5" Rear Speakers
  • Alpine 2x MRP-M650 (one per sub)/ MRP-T220
  • Big 3 with 2 Gauge

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Unread 09-29-2010, 08:10 PM   #30
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Default 05-31-2010 Update!

Well I FINALLY got the fuel pump mess all sorted out. Broke off the positive connector on the new fuel pump . So I soldered the wire onto the brass that was leftover from the busted bolt. Anyway, here are some pictures .

Old Fuel Pump, still attached to the car:


Another shot of the old fuel pump still attached:


The new fuel pump, and everything it came with:


Here's the old fuel pump after I was FINALLY able to pull it off of there. It took 2 days (I kid you not) to get that sucker off. That is the ORIGINAL fuel pump from 1986. The bolts were rusted on there BADLY. I tried WD-40 to get them off. Didn't work. So I ended up going to AutoZone and buying some "Liquid Wrench - Nut Buster". After soaking the bolts with that stuff, and using the ENTIRE can...we FINALLY busted the nut. So here's the fuel pump finally taken off the car:


The lines that connect the fuel pump into the fuel system:


And finally, the new fuel pump installed, and doing a test run:


All in all, this was a VERY tedious process. It was VERY difficult, just to get the car in the air. The fuel pump is right where we would normally have put a jack at. Where the jack was at...if we lifted the car any higher, it started lifting the front tires off the ground, which caused it to roll (not good). So we settled for the jack where it was (with no jack stand), and a jack stand in the rear of the car on a support brace...sitting on some cinder blocks.

It took us about 3 hours of wrenching to pull the fuel pump down so it was accessible. I'd say another 8 hours or so, just getting the old one disconnected. Then it took about 2 hours or so, connecting the new one, leak testing, bolting it all back up, and then leak testing again.

The only bad thing with this whole process.....

After spending SOOO much time trying to turn the engine over with no fuel, the battery went dead. I also noobed up, and left my door cracked open over the last 2 nights...so my dome light was on the whole time too. So now I'm sitting with a dead-ish battery. I know, I can push start if needed . That's how we started it. But I did just get back from driving the car 3 hours on the highway. Hopefully that'll give my battery enough of a charge to start the car again. I'll be driving it the next few days in lower gears than normal...so I can keep the engine revved higher, so it'll charge the battery easier.

Hope you guys enjoyed this update...because I sure as hell didn't. I am NEVER doing another Honda fuel pump again.
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My current project:
  • 1987 Honda Prelude 2.0 SI
  • Dual Mechless Head Unit (yeah, its Dual )
  • Kicker KS5250 Door Speakers
  • Pioneer 1" Dome Tweeters (Door)
  • Pioneer Premier REV 6.5" Rear Speakers
  • Alpine 2x MRP-M650 (one per sub)/ MRP-T220
  • Big 3 with 2 Gauge

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