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Unread 10-18-2010, 06:15 AM   #21
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Somehow I had run kind of low, and it was causing my BRAKE light to stay on.

I really didn't want to deal with bleeding the system.
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Unread 10-18-2010, 07:38 AM   #22
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Chances are if your brake light was on, there's already air in the system..you need to bleed it. You can be lazy with many things on a car, but it's not a good plan to be lazy about the thing that makes you stop.
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Unread 10-18-2010, 12:05 PM   #23
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There's also a reason why it's low that you need to find. Brake fluid is non-consumable.

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Unread 10-18-2010, 04:19 PM   #24
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Awe man . I knew it couldn't be that easy.

I'm looking up how to bleed my brakes now .
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Unread 10-18-2010, 06:11 PM   #25
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Pretty easy 2 man job...i can bleed brakes in 5 minutes, but i do it for a living.

1) Top the fluid off
2) Have someone get in the car, press the pedal.
3) with brake pedal down, loosen bleeder screw and let fluid come out until it's solid fluid (NOT bubbling). It's easy if you have a little tube to put on the fitting of the bleeder screw, so you can tell. Have a catch can underneath
4) Brake pedal still down, when it stops bubbling, screw it back in. Then they can release the brakes.

Repeat this procedure 2 or 3 times for each wheel in your case.

Also, if the fluid isn't clear, you need to flush it completely..brake fluid should not look like black paint, and if it hasn't been done before, you might be due.


Do you have rear drums? Typically on a client with leaking brakes, first thing i check is if they have rear drums, wheel cylinder is most common. Second is banjo bolt, third is flexible lines.
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Unread 10-18-2010, 06:16 PM   #26
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I dunno, if it was just barely low it wouldn't let air in...for example on my 240 if the reservoir is half empty the light comes on, but it has to loose a lot more fluid than that for any air to get in. When my caliper decided to split down the middle the light was intermittent 'cause of the fluid sloshing around, but it didn't require bleeding the entire system (other than that wheel, of course).
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Unread 10-18-2010, 07:08 PM   #27
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Typically if it's far enough to set the BRAKE light, it's got air in the system.
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Unread 02-23-2011, 02:53 PM   #28
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Unread 02-24-2011, 02:05 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wierdo124 View Post
Pretty easy 2 man job...i can bleed brakes in 5 minutes, but i do it for a living.

1) Top the fluid off
2) Have someone get in the car, press the pedal.
3) with brake pedal down, loosen bleeder screw and let fluid come out until it's solid fluid (NOT bubbling). It's easy if you have a little tube to put on the fitting of the bleeder screw, so you can tell. Have a catch can underneath
4) Brake pedal still down, when it stops bubbling, screw it back in. Then they can release the brakes.

Repeat this procedure 2 or 3 times for each wheel in your case.

Also, if the fluid isn't clear, you need to flush it completely..brake fluid should not look like black paint, and if it hasn't been done before, you might be due.


Do you have rear drums? Typically on a client with leaking brakes, first thing i check is if they have rear drums, wheel cylinder is most common. Second is banjo bolt, third is flexible lines.
Also, start the bleeding on the wheel furthest from the master cylinder. Typically the RR, then LR, then FR, FL.
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