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Unread 05-17-2010, 10:53 PM   #1
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Cool Endo's 350 Build - work has begun

Well guys i have opted for building a 350 and gaining knowledge from the process rather then just dropping a pre built motor in. Also it will be easier for me to spend $2,000 little chunks at a time rather then all at once.

I purchased a 350 fuel injected from a 89 silverado 2500

What do i want to do? I think 300 to 330 HP is not unreasonable i would like any suggestions you guys can give me for parts. It will be for street/race so I will want it tame enough to drive as my daily.


Also i am planning to switch it to a carbed unless i can get some good suggestions for fuel injection. And if i go injected i will need to get a high pressure fuel pump which shouldn't be a problem.


Tear down

Here is the start of my project. as i said i purchased a 350 and it sat in the back of my truck for a few days. I have no engine hoist only an engine stand so I dismantled some of it in the back of my truck.

cylinder on the left has a blown valve. the last 2 on the right had a bent rod for the intake valve. Cylinder walls look good.





Good amount of sludge build up. clogged a few of the rods.


bent rod. the other one was just as bad.


intake







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Unread 05-17-2010, 10:54 PM   #2
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heads
casting # 3927186
date code is H278 - August 27, 1968
intake 2.02" exhaust 1.6" chamber CC 63.305
a little porting done to them.
stainless 2.02 in manley intake valves
metal viton seals
3/8 rocker stud
magnaflux by the shop that did the work
ended up costing $400 but still a good deal.










New stuff


Cam
Comp Cam
Part #: 12-210-2
Grind #: 268H
RPM-Range:1500 to 5500
Lobe-Center Angle: 110
Duration: Intake 268 Exhaust 268
Valve Lift: .454


melling oil pump m-55hv

Cloyes Gear C-3023X Double Roller Chain

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Unread 05-17-2010, 10:54 PM   #3
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more info later
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Unread 05-17-2010, 11:01 PM   #4
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300HP? Streetable? Reliable? Carb'd? Not a problem.


First and foremost, how's the inside of your engine look? Pull the heads and inspect the cylinder walls, feeling for ring ridge up at the top and looking for crosshatching. Also have a look at the head gaskets, see if they were about to fail. I also suggest pulling the thrust bearing and a rod cap or two off and having a look at those surfaces. then checking them with Plastigage to ascertain how much wear they have on them.


We can go from there once we know what kind of shape the inside of the motor is in. If it was well cared for and is below 150K, you shouldn't need to do a damn thing to the inside of the motor to spit out 300HP reliably.


Pics are also required
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Unread 05-17-2010, 11:17 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TestECull View Post
300HP? Streetable? Reliable? Carb'd? Not a problem.


First and foremost, how's the inside of your engine look? Pull the heads and inspect the cylinder walls, feeling for ring ridge up at the top and looking for crosshatching. Also have a look at the head gaskets, see if they were about to fail. I also suggest pulling the thrust bearing and a rod cap or two off and having a look at those surfaces. then checking them with Plastigage to ascertain how much wear they have on them.


We can go from there once we know what kind of shape the inside of the motor is in. If it was well cared for and is below 150K, you shouldn't need to do a damn thing to the inside of the motor to spit out 300HP reliably.


Pics are also required
i think he said 130,000 miles.

i will probably have it crack checked and cleaned and possibly honed if needed so that is on the to do list as well.
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Unread 05-17-2010, 11:28 PM   #6
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If there's still crosshatching in the cylinders you won't need a hone, as that's basically what the hone does. Breaks the glaze and puts those in there. If the cylinder walls are mirror smooth a hone would do wonders.

130K...yeah if it was well maintained you probably don't have to do much more than inspect it. It should still be in excellent shape internally. But that's why we check it out beforehand
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1984 Ford F150 | 4x2 | 300ci six | granny four | 3.55 rear end | 210K | Brakes shot. Rear drums are doing most of the work. Not fit to drive due to that.
1997 Ford Explorer XLT | 4.0L Vulcan V6 | 5-speed automatic | shift-on-the-fly 4WD | 210,000 miles | Running 95% - Needs brakes on all four corners + bald tires
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Unread 05-18-2010, 07:07 AM   #7
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I think you should inject it.
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Unread 05-18-2010, 07:48 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wierdo124 View Post
I think you should inject it.
do i need a computer for that. because the computer in my car was ripped out and i dont want to put one back in.

also what is the price difference and do you have any links for a good fuel injection system.
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Unread 05-18-2010, 10:46 AM   #9
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Holley makes a fuel injection system designed entirely to convert carburetted engines. It consists of a 'normal' carb'd intake manifold, with one key difference: Fuel rails and eight injectors right next to the intake ports. The throttle body is a four barrel affair with a TPS, mounted where a carb would normally mount, and it uses the same air filter a carb would use. The kit also includes the ECU and all the necessary sensors for it to work. The only thing you need to supply is a fuel pump.


I couldn't for the life of me remember what they call it but it's a pretty brilliant little system. It also makes me wonder why the hell the OEMs put these spider's web intakes on cars. The Port EFI system I'm talking about has the same throttle response as a carb, is nice and compact, is brutally simple and works great. Nothing's hard to get to. Also gets the same MPG as the spider web intakes the OEMs use.


If it's going into your Camaro, I'd stick with a carb. Too much trouble replacing the fuel pump in it IMO.
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My rigs:

1985 Ford F150 | 4x2 | 300ci OHV inline six | 4-speed OD manual | 310K | No power brakes | Running 100% - It hasn't driven this good in 15 years!

1984 Ford F150 | 4x2 | 300ci six | granny four | 3.55 rear end | 210K | Brakes shot. Rear drums are doing most of the work. Not fit to drive due to that.
1997 Ford Explorer XLT | 4.0L Vulcan V6 | 5-speed automatic | shift-on-the-fly 4WD | 210,000 miles | Running 95% - Needs brakes on all four corners + bald tires
1989 Ford F150 | 300cid six...again | 5-speed | 4x4 | 160K | Needs brakes done as well. Oi!

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Unread 05-18-2010, 04:30 PM   #10
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What TestE said. But i'm not sure if you would actually need a higher output fuel pump - what's the reasoning behind that? The engine needs the same (probably less) fuel anyway. You'll get better performance and driveability out of an injected 350 than you would carbed.
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