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Author
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pbasil1
In boost we trust!
Registered: July 2006
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 1,740
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Mon November 13, 2006 9:46pm
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Did you block off the tubing that used to go to the fende well as the intake? If not you should, so all the air will be sucked in though the nifty little hood scoop you have, and also when going fast, the hood scoop will give a "ram-air" effect... but only if you block off the original intake pipe so only the hood scoop is pushing in into the intake. If you leave it open, at speed, the air will just rush in the hood scoop and back out that orignal pipe.
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1991 Supra
RE Audio FTW
Muffler bearing!!!
Like performance computers too?
Overclock.net
"It's worse than porn...at least I can get a girl...no way I can get that car. lol" -Gandalf
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Shrimpykins
Senior Member
Registered: August 2009
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 391
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Mon February 1, 2010 9:02am
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The logistics of gaining horsepower from ram air techniques is quite flawed. Even with an opening the air is still most likely jetting directly over the opening due to the nature of fluid dynamics. The air hits the front of the car, goes up and pushes the airflow a few inches above the entire hood of the car. Basically, unless you design a scoop that projects nearly 4-5 inches above the actual airflow of the car, you aren't getting any extra pressure to the CAI cavity. Besides that, you would need to be doing speeds in excess of 120 MPH to see real BHP gains.
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Custom Case Modding - MM Pinnacle 24
09' S197 GT Mustang Modding - Birth of a Road Racer [Now with videos!]
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Kenny McCormick
Spah sappin' mah susp!
Registered: January 2009
Location: Earth...I think
Posts: 1,557
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Tue February 23, 2010 7:25am
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Ram air works great if you mount the intake in the grille. Ford put the intake tube on my truck just inside of the passenger headlight, and with that tube disconnected I lose 20HP. Reason it works there is that there's a massive wall hitting the air, so any spot the air can go to get away from the wall gets a ton of it in. Result: Ram air. From the factory. 
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I may have a new name but I'm still the same nut I always have been.  My rigs:
1985 Ford F150 | 4x2 | 300ci OHV inline six | 4-speed OD manual | 275K | No power brakes | Running 75%. Needs ball joints replaced BADLY
1988 Dodge Dakota | 4x4 | V6 | 5-speed | 165K | Running 0%, box of neutrals where the transmission goes.
1996 Chrysler Town & Country | FWD | 3.8L V6 | 4-speed automatic w/ OD | 120K | Running 95%. high idle/transmission leak
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