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Unread 09-17-2012, 03:44 PM   #1
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Default 2000 Toyota camry v6 - rear wheels caliper problem

Hello Seniors/Friends,

Looking for your advise. I have a 2000 toyota camry v6. There is some problem in the brake system. My brake padal is going all the way down. I tried to replace the brake pad in rear wheels. Unfortunately I was able to replace in one right side rear wheel only due to hard bolt, so I lost the confidence for other wheels.

full rust on rear wheels rotors, so what is the problem for that ? Caliper is not working properly ? Front wheels rotor are not signs.

After installing brake pads in rear right wheel, wheel is not able to move smoothly. It became very hard because new pads. How can I add space between them, so rotor can move easily.

Could you please let me know what could be the possible cause ? I am afraid now as it will eat more gas. I am in full tension that I shoud not have done myself.

Thanks a lot for your help in this situation.

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Unread 09-17-2012, 04:27 PM   #2
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The pedal should never drop to the floor like that, not even in a panic stop.


With it not moving, hop in and floor the pedal a couple times. Then hop out and crawl around underneath it, all corners. Find the brake fluid. That will tell you which corner has the problem. Pull that tire off and inspect the lines, the fluid will leave a trail right to the broken part.


As for the pads, if you got it together it should be loose enough to rotate. Disc brake calipers don't have any return spring per se, and they're always a bit tight when you first put new pads in. You may have kinked the line on that corner, or perhaps put a small loop in it, trapping fluid and not allowing it to drain back into the master cylinder.


Also, don't drive the car until it's fixed. The pedal going to the floor means no brakes. No brakes = unsafe.
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1985 Ford F150 | 4x2 | 300ci OHV inline six | 4-speed OD manual | 310K | No power brakes | Running 100% - It hasn't driven this good in 15 years!

1984 Ford F150 | 4x2 | 300ci six | granny four | 3.55 rear end | 210K | Brakes shot. Rear drums are doing most of the work. Not fit to drive due to that.
1997 Ford Explorer XLT | 4.0L Vulcan V6 | 5-speed automatic | shift-on-the-fly 4WD | 210,000 miles | Running 95% - Needs brakes on all four corners + bald tires
1989 Ford F150 | 300cid six...again | 5-speed | 4x4 | 160K | Needs brakes done as well. Oi!

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Unread 09-17-2012, 05:02 PM   #3
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If you pushed the caliper piston back all the way you should be able to spin the wheel easily. If you have a lot of rust on the rotor edges the rust buildup may be dragging on the pads, the old pads would have worn at this point so they wouldn't drag.

Does you car have a park brake mechanism in the brake caliper? I can't remember for sure but I think so. How did you retract the caliper pistons? If you just forced them you have ruined the park brake mechanism and it may be jamming the piston. To retract the piston you need to "screw" it in, turn as you press.

As far as your pedal going down, check the four wheels for fluid leaks as suggested. If you don't have a brake fluid leak then the brake master cylinder is gone.
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Unread 09-19-2012, 03:09 PM   #4
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Thanks a lot Friends for your respond. I am grateful for that.

Yes My car has hand brake facility. It is working fine. I am not sure why caliper is not working smoothly. Is it due to weather ? If I go to mechanic, if they suggest to replace the calipers in rear wheels, then what should I keep in mind for caliper cost and labor ? How much it should cost me total ?

Please help. I am afraid to be overcharged by mechanic.

Thanks a lot.

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Unread 09-22-2012, 09:54 AM   #5
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Friends, could you please respond ? Thanks a lot.

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