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Unread 06-13-2017, 11:09 AM   #51
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Just a quick teaser for you all.

I just got it running again after the VATS had locked up the PCM. This morning fired it up to bring it back into the shop, just couldn't resist a little play time.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k-L-XK4rzfs
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Unread 06-13-2017, 11:14 AM   #52
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Just a quick teaser for you all.

I just got it running again after the VATS had locked up the PCM. This morning fired it up to bring it back into the shop, just couldn't resist a little play time.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k-L-XK4rzfs
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Unread 06-13-2017, 12:09 PM   #53
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Just a quick teaser for you all.

I just got it running again after the VATS had locked up the PCM. This morning fired it up to bring it back into the shop, just couldn't resist a little play time.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k-L-XK4rzfs
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Unread 06-14-2017, 10:57 PM   #54
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Small update

Since disabling the VATS I've moved onto the cooling fan controls as I can now program the PCM to control them. I bought a couple of PICO relays and sockets. I used jumpers to temporarily make all the connections. I simulated the ground signals of the PCM and the relays operated the fans. I soldered and shrink tubed everything and started the engine. I was watching my scanner for the magic temp to arise but nothing happened. After it passed the required temp by several degrees I decided to investigate.

I've done many many relay installations, and so far on this I've not had one circuit that I've wired wrong.

I check the relays for and the PCM wires for ground, all was good. I pulled the low speed relay out and checked the socket connections for power & ground. The power in connection was dead. I checked the relay and it had fried itself. The 25 amp fuse was still good but the relay was toast, and it burned the socket connection.

I went and picked up some Hella relays and sockets, much better quality. Rewired the new relays and everything's a go. The fan on low cools the idling engine down from 93C to 89C in less than a minute. With the hood down the fan is hardly noticeable.

Now I've got just the speedo and tach left to wire up and I'm done under the hood.

I've got several little things to tidy up and it'll be ready for the road, maybe another couple of weeks.
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Unread 07-07-2017, 10:05 PM   #55
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Well folks, the first test drive happened today.

I took a short but not so discrete drive around the block this morning. Suffice to say the 225 Michelins cannot hold the power. From a rolling start in a straight line on clean pavement, rolling on the throttle produces much wheel spin, all the way through first, second and into 3rd. I DO have a video but I will not post it, I'm ashamed of my behavior.

I've got a short list of things to do before it gets released on the public; gas gauge, tach & speedo and tidy up the wiring.

I'm hoping to have it ready for next Friday at our local track. I promise I WILL post a video.
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Unread 07-08-2017, 09:35 PM   #56
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So today I got a permit to drive it for the day.

The engine ran perfect all day, 30+ C ambient. Cooling was not an issue at all. It runs between 89-94, it was stop and go, the fan only came on a couple of times.

It runs strong, real strong. That 6.0 has been hauling around a 5000 lb work truck all its life until now. A 3400 lb feather weight is nothing for that engine. I accelerates so quick, and goes through the gears so quick that I'm in 4th by the time I'm across an intersection, and doing the speed limit with all the traffic far behind me.

The 4L80 shifts plenty firm, chirping tires in 3rd. I'm going to dial down the pressures because with this so much lighter I don't need the higher pressure to keep the transmission from slipping.

Not too pleased with the mount and header swap kit I bought. Besides being difficult to get the engine positioned properly in the mounts, the upper control arms on the front axle hit the mounts! On my first road test, when I hit a dip in the road, or hit the brakes hard after accelerating I would hear a metal to metal bang. So now I'll have to grind some of the underside of the mount to get more clearance. If I have to grind much more than a 1/4" I'll have to remove the mounts and refabricate them!

I'm still bummed out about my gauge cluster not working. After many hours online and hours on the phone, companies claiming that they could rework my gauges, when it came down to committing that they would work, they backed out. I refuse to spend $500 for aftermarket gauges, I want something that looks OEM. I'm considering adapting a Chevy Tahoe, 1999ish cluster. It is about the same dimensions and is already 100% compatible with the PCM.

So the plan is to get some things sorted out for this coming Friday in hopes I can make a few passes at the track.

Stay tuned.
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