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Unread 01-03-2009, 10:59 PM   #1
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Anybody here currently race or have in the past raced autocross?
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Unread 01-03-2009, 11:02 PM   #2
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Im actually thinking about getting into it soon. Im installing all sorta suspension/traction stuff. I just got my subframe connectors installed which made a HUGE difference in the stang.

Next will probably be gears + posi lock (my v6 comes with a open diff), lowering springs + CC plates, ect.
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Unread 01-04-2009, 12:13 AM   #3
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I was going to build a CK5 from ground up, but now i'm thinking it would be more cost effective to make a autocross car from my Z-24 it'll take some serious mods but I don't want to to build a full out drag car just a fun car to take to the track. This is what I was thinking about.

ENGINE
95 2.3L intake camshaft, *VIN D #24574239
93-94 Quad 4 exhaust cam, *VIN D #24570698
GM small block high tension valve springs
full rebuilt .040 bore with 10.0.1 pistons light wieght rods
.005 shaved deck .010 shaved head and triple steal head gasket
port and polish head 35mm valves stainless steal installed
56mm trottle body custom cold air intake possibly cheap inner cooler
stock cooling 160f t-stat
venom intake with spacer
a/c delete pulley
moroso oil pump


EXHASUT
2.5" exhaust 4-2-1 Ceramic Race Header DC sports #CHR3001,
heat wrapped for temp
rear exhaust 2.5" custom probably Magnaflow parts

SUSPENSION
D-Spec Series 1.4 Inch Lowering Kit adjustable ciolovers Tokico #DSK501
Anti-Roll Kit Front 26mm & Rear 22mm Anti-Sway Bars Eibach #3860.320
strut brase cheap already have
Custom independent rear suspensionfrom 2000 Grand am GT
complete rear N body set up.

BRAKES
N/BODY Upgrade front spindles and bearings from 2000 Malibu
12" rotors drilled and dimpled ebc
F body front calipers
98 F/body front pads hawk #HB249F.575
rear disc stock N/body with bearings and spindles
rear 2000 Malibu pads hawk #HB359F.543 definetly cryo treated rotors
1998 F/body master cylinder for 4wheel disc
rerout rear brake lines install dual brake biasing valve Wilwood sku# wwvalve
custom braided steal lines 2 front 1 rear stock ABS set up

DRIVE TRAIN
Transmission stock
Short throw shifter Fidanza #898000

Clutch
light wieght spec flywheel
FX400 Steel Back Heavy Duty Street/Track Clutch Kit clutch master #04-160-HDCB

Axles
hybrid outer jiont 36mm on stock inner axle.

WHEELS AND TIRES
Now 5x115 thanks to conversion of brakes
possibly sport edition f7 17x7 21.5lbs. or nascar Sonoma 18"x7.5" 20.5lbs. or stock
GM replacement in 17 or 18
225/45zr17 or 225/40zr18BFG G-force supersport A/S or BFG G-force t/a KD

EXTERIOR
sleeper ssshhh
possibly rear adjustable wing if needed after test

All together I figure about 6500-8g's depending how much I can find at a pick a part yard. It should handle grate still be driveable on the street and emmissions legal but I wouldn't daily drive it with that clutch. Roughly get 225HP and 198TQ plus I figure 19MPG if my calculation is correct. What are the rules about modifications and what classes for mods are there I don't want to end up in a highly modded class that the little girl can't compete in?
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Unread 01-05-2009, 12:37 AM   #4
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I found the 93-94 exhaust cam today #24570698 and picked up a intake cam for 93-94 HO which will work on my motor but not what i'm looking for so I figure to see if I can find some one to swap with me for the right cam shaft sincce mine more valuable the the one i'm looking for. Plus the guy has a collection of other quad parts I need to check out like ac bypass pulley and others. Also i'm chaning the exhast to a straight pipe i'll probably just feed false signal to the rear o2 input to keep the engine light off
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Unread 01-05-2009, 11:51 AM   #5
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Id like to get a cam, but I dont know how or feel like paying someone to do it for more than I bought the cam for lol. Well my local mustang club guys said they would do it. But its hard for me to get a good time.
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Unread 01-05-2009, 03:11 PM   #6
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I've done it before when I barrowed my god moms WRX STI on track day. thats awesome as hell.. too bad they dug up the track we used, and the two nearest to me are either locked up (no public entry) or dirt.
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Unread 01-05-2009, 10:05 PM   #7
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Alright I decided i'll probablyu just use the set of HO cams rather then trading I just need to weld the reluctor ring on the intake cam to make it work. I really didn't want to do that before but oh well SRT if your out there any ideas on a neon rear disc set up spindle and bearing? I may just do that then convert.
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Unread 01-05-2009, 10:06 PM   #8
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Quote:
Id like to get a cam, but I dont know how or feel like paying someone to do it for more than I bought the cam for lol. Well my local mustang club guys said they would do it. But its hard for me to get a good time.
Your motor really isn't that bad to swap just a saturday project.
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Unread 01-07-2009, 04:30 AM   #9
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I will be autocrossing the supra once i get her back up and running... But in all honesty it will for the most part be seriously overpowered for a RWD autoX car.... But im hoping the stand alone ECU i bought will allow for easy changes to the mapping so i can have a few different maps i can run at the press of a button.

Im building my supra to more so be a track car... hopefull get some time in SCCA racing. So hopping on a drift and or AutoX course shouldnt be to hard, plus it will be good cross training....

For autoX, just remember that handling and braking will out way raw power. Thats why Lotus' and Miatas dominate any AutoX track... So if it were me, i would focus on making your car lighter, and tighten the suspension up as much as you can. And when thinking of light weight, dont waste your time with pulling out plastic panels inside the car... its a waste of time, it will only add up to maybe 10lbs. The seats, hood, glass, wheels and battery will be the heaviest and easiest to modify, but the glass and hood will be most expensive to modify... Also relocate some weight, try and even the cars weight balance as close to 50/50% as you can.... Some good coil overs would be great, and allow you to lower the center of gravity. Strong bakes would be the next concern, then performance parts...
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Unread 01-07-2009, 10:25 AM   #10
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That's what I've been figuring the stock bearings and brakes will be pretty pathetic. The changes listed above will give me a 30% larger bearing 12" dual piston calipers out front and 11" single piston rear disc out back for a 2800lb car this should stop on a dime. The suspension will be completly N body in rear and j body in front but extremly brased. I was considering dropping the entire ac system a carbon fiber hood since mine has rust damage anyway but still not sure. I'm not planning on cutting much wieght.
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