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#1 |
New Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 3
Rep: 10
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![]() looking for the best choice of an air intake for an 89civic lx....... short ram.... aem... etc
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#2 |
Spah sappin' mah susp!
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Earth...I think
Posts: 3,271
Rep: 96
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![]() Best bet would likely be a custom job. 99% of the shelf-bought CAIs don't actually suck cold air, rendering them nothing more than noise modification devices.
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Tired Iron ain't got no time to wear out...
My rigs: 1985 Ford F150 | 4x2 | 300ci OHV inline six | 4-speed OD manual | 310K | No power brakes | Running 100% - It hasn't driven this good in 15 years! 1984 Ford F150 | 4x2 | 300ci six | granny four | 3.55 rear end | 210K | Brakes shot. Rear drums are doing most of the work. Not fit to drive due to that. 1997 Ford Explorer XLT | 4.0L Vulcan V6 | 5-speed automatic | shift-on-the-fly 4WD | 210,000 miles | Running 95% - Needs brakes on all four corners + bald tires 1989 Ford F150 | 300cid six...again | 5-speed | 4x4 | 160K | Needs brakes done as well. Oi! |
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#3 |
Veteran Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Dallas, OR
Posts: 2,930
Rep: 39
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![]() Look at pics of CAI's. Just get the K&N Cone filter, tubing, and section it off.
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2001 Tahoe LT Autoride w/ third seat +25hp ![]() K&N air filter +50hp ![]() Custom Radio +15hp ![]() Soon to buy: Exhaust +50hp ![]() Lowering kit (2") +30hp ![]() |
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#4 |
Veteran Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 553
Rep: 18
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![]() And a degree in fluid dynamics..
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#5 |
Vroom Vroom
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: In the engine bay
Posts: 847
Rep: 42
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![]() Only for those who want to try the ram air technique. What most people don't understand is how air travels over a car. They put these scoop that raise off the hood maybe 1.5" at max yet they don't realize the blast of air in the front lifts the actual moving air nearly 2" off the cars surface, then it hits the windshield at which point it's slightly closer, then jets above the car.
See the crude drawing: ![]() The green is the lower air flow, red the air flow at the height of the air ram (or about so) and blue is the air ram and where the air flow should be to make use of the air ram. Notice how the air flow goes completely above the air ram, thusly making 0% use of the ram air technique. Now, you can raise the scoop and get some use of the ram air technique... But another problem arises. The problem of pressure. How much pressure do you think you can build up and force into the engine? Because after all, this is nothing more than forced induction without the mechanical side of it. Done guessing? Last time I checked it was around .2 PSI at about 180mph (wish I could find the darn link). That amounts to about 2HP on a 300BHP motor. Not much, not to mention you would have a hard time in most cars getting up to 180mph. Now onto how a cold air intake works. Cold air is more dense and therefore contains more molecules per unit of volume than hot air does. So theoretically, the colder you can get the air, the more oxygen content in the air for the combustion phase. So... A cold air intake isn't actually a cold air intake unless it's taking in... That's right class... COLD AIR. This will not be found under the hood, unless you place the intake filter in an area where fresh air is circulated. You also don't want any restriction in your intake. You do need a filter though. Last edited by Shrimpykins; 03-02-2010 at 05:58 PM. |
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#6 |
Spah sappin' mah susp!
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Earth...I think
Posts: 3,271
Rep: 96
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![]() Another great place to put an intake is in the cowl vents. A high-pressure 'tube' of air tends to form there, and on every vehicle I've ever driven or ridden in that has cowl vents, it's powerful enough to force air through the HVAC no matter where it's set. You tend to get a slight amount of ramming effect from sucking air here, not to mention the air there is equal in temp to the outside air.
IMO, if you want a functional hood scoop that doesn't obscure visibility, get a 2" cowl hood and plumb your intake accordingly.
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Tired Iron ain't got no time to wear out...
My rigs: 1985 Ford F150 | 4x2 | 300ci OHV inline six | 4-speed OD manual | 310K | No power brakes | Running 100% - It hasn't driven this good in 15 years! 1984 Ford F150 | 4x2 | 300ci six | granny four | 3.55 rear end | 210K | Brakes shot. Rear drums are doing most of the work. Not fit to drive due to that. 1997 Ford Explorer XLT | 4.0L Vulcan V6 | 5-speed automatic | shift-on-the-fly 4WD | 210,000 miles | Running 95% - Needs brakes on all four corners + bald tires 1989 Ford F150 | 300cid six...again | 5-speed | 4x4 | 160K | Needs brakes done as well. Oi! |
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#7 |
Veteran Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Chicago, IL (NW Suburbs)
Posts: 750
Rep: 18
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![]() Just lead your intake to the wheel wells where the air is roughly the temperature outside of the car, but that all depends on how that wheel well is covered/sectioned off from the engine.
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My Ride Year: 2001 Make: Acura Model: TL Color: Dark Metallic Blue Engine: 3.2L SOHC V6 with VTEC, 225HP/216 ft/lb torque. 162k Miles and still going strong! ![]() |
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#8 |
Now accepting bribes.
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Currently Las Vegas
Posts: 4,311
Rep: 193
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![]() Most cars already have a air feed from under the car to the air box replacing the tubing and using a better air filter like a cone while removing the box will make minor improvements, but just sectioning the air filter off with a wall between the filter and engine bay can make a major difference with out rounting the actual filter under the car or in the fender. the factory feed usually works really well with out mod. You just need to have a barrier between the engine bay and filter the air doesn't radiate in the bay long while the vehicle is moving anyway it constantly circulates.
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Please help reduce our mini van population and wear condoms! |
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#9 | |
Veteran Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Chicago, IL (NW Suburbs)
Posts: 750
Rep: 18
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![]() Quote:
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My Ride Year: 2001 Make: Acura Model: TL Color: Dark Metallic Blue Engine: 3.2L SOHC V6 with VTEC, 225HP/216 ft/lb torque. 162k Miles and still going strong! ![]() |
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