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Unread 06-10-2010, 02:22 PM   #1
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Default Gear lube testing

Picked up off another Forum but this is a awesome read.
http://www.performanceoiltechnology....te%20Paper.pdf

Matter fact I'm adding this one also it's much older but one of my favorites a awesome read. While were reading.
http://www.supramania.com/forums/sho...al-Oil-Filters
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Unread 06-10-2010, 02:46 PM   #2
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I didn't understand the .pdf at all but it is a good read, nonetheless. The second one I understood a lot more. Good thing i've been going with the K&N performance filters. Should probably stop getting FRAM for the GP, though...
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Unread 06-10-2010, 05:52 PM   #3
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Good to hear, i recently switched to Bosch filters on my Blazer figured they were better than Fram, but sounds like they're one of the best...
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Unread 06-11-2010, 01:31 AM   #4
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Bosch, K&N, and mobile1 are all the same filter, made by the same company, just re-branded...

Jdub from supramania/SM is a beast! He knows a bit too much about lubricants. If i remember correctly he has a background at some oil company doing the actual research/development. I have learned a bit from him. He knows best. Most of what he has stated in that thread, applies to all cars, not just supras.

BTW, didnt i post this stuff somewhere on here in a thread about a year ago?

Also oils 101

http://www.supramania.com/forums/sho...and-Synthetics
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Unread 06-11-2010, 07:31 AM   #5
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I think I might of posted it a year ago just reposted since I was posting the other and it's always a good read a Supra guy I work with turned me on to the article a couple yeas back. This oil one looks good to have to read it tonight.
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Unread 06-11-2010, 08:29 AM   #6
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Those oil filter findings don't surprise me at all. I tend to use this study and it correlates nicely with the one listed in OP. And what I've found cutting open filters myself.

My filter of choice is a Motorcraft FL-1A. That is a rebranded Purolator(And I cut these suckers open to make sure they still are). Barring that I pick up a Wix at Carquest.

There's a reason I don't like Fram and it isn't because they're orange.....It's a shame these filters are so poor internally, because they do have a nice feature in the grippy coating on the end.
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Unread 06-11-2010, 05:43 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TestECull View Post
Those oil filter findings don't surprise me at all. I tend to use this study and it correlates nicely with the one listed in OP. And what I've found cutting open filters myself.

My filter of choice is a Motorcraft FL-1A. That is a rebranded Purolator(And I cut these suckers open to make sure they still are). Barring that I pick up a Wix at Carquest.

There's a reason I don't like Fram and it isn't because they're orange.....It's a shame these filters are so poor internally, because they do have a nice feature in the grippy coating on the end.
By the way - you said the reason my oil pressure was so high was because i used a Fram. Incorrect, my oil pressure didn't change on a Bosch filter. I just have very good oil pressure.
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Unread 06-11-2010, 05:52 PM   #8
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Your sensor must be pre-filter then.


I know what I saw when the Fram was on elev8rsh0es' '68. It dropped so low the gauge failed to read it at a stop sign with the fram(and the valve train chose that moment to get VERY noisy. No knock though). When we got a Purolator on it the valve train shut right up and the oil PSI has never dropped below 15PSI at idle since.
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1985 Ford F150 | 4x2 | 300ci OHV inline six | 4-speed OD manual | 310K | No power brakes | Running 100% - It hasn't driven this good in 15 years!

1984 Ford F150 | 4x2 | 300ci six | granny four | 3.55 rear end | 210K | Brakes shot. Rear drums are doing most of the work. Not fit to drive due to that.
1997 Ford Explorer XLT | 4.0L Vulcan V6 | 5-speed automatic | shift-on-the-fly 4WD | 210,000 miles | Running 95% - Needs brakes on all four corners + bald tires
1989 Ford F150 | 300cid six...again | 5-speed | 4x4 | 160K | Needs brakes done as well. Oi!

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Unread 06-11-2010, 06:12 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TestECull View Post
Your sensor must be pre-filter then.


I know what I saw when the Fram was on elev8rsh0es' '68. It dropped so low the gauge failed to read it at a stop sign with the fram(and the valve train chose that moment to get VERY noisy. No knock though). When we got a Purolator on it the valve train shut right up and the oil PSI has never dropped below 15PSI at idle since.
Nope, post filter.
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Unread 06-11-2010, 06:35 PM   #10
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Then it'd have to be an artifact of your average-reading gauge instead of the real-time one in the Mustang. Those things are really only good for ".....yup you have pressure". How much is beyond their abilities.
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My rigs:

1985 Ford F150 | 4x2 | 300ci OHV inline six | 4-speed OD manual | 310K | No power brakes | Running 100% - It hasn't driven this good in 15 years!

1984 Ford F150 | 4x2 | 300ci six | granny four | 3.55 rear end | 210K | Brakes shot. Rear drums are doing most of the work. Not fit to drive due to that.
1997 Ford Explorer XLT | 4.0L Vulcan V6 | 5-speed automatic | shift-on-the-fly 4WD | 210,000 miles | Running 95% - Needs brakes on all four corners + bald tires
1989 Ford F150 | 300cid six...again | 5-speed | 4x4 | 160K | Needs brakes done as well. Oi!

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