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Unread 07-05-2010, 06:10 PM   #1
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Default 93 caprice and its pulling to the right?

Hey everyone im new.
I have this 93 caprice and its pulling to the right; I did have a wheel alignment
about a year ago with not much change.
I will be driving along and the car will gradually pull to the right, I will be holding the wheel to the left to keep the car going straight.

I have installed different tires with no change.
One thing Im thinking is when I installed new shocks I never torqued the nut on the upper assembly I donít know if the both of them could be uneven and be a part of this problem.

Anyway any input would be great as I donít want to be throwing money away on alignments.

Thank you.

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Unread 07-05-2010, 06:28 PM   #2
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What nut on the upper assembly are you speaking of? The multiple strut mount bolts or the single large bolt?
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Unread 07-05-2010, 06:28 PM   #3
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I need to see the alignment print out but I would suspect the car may need front end work lower control arm buchings would be the first thing I would check. The bolt won't affect the pull but a alignemnt should be done at least once a year
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Unread 07-05-2010, 09:29 PM   #4
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I would say that too but any alignment shop worth beans should tell you if they think something's getting worn. My alignment shop told me a few months ago that my ball joints are starting to get tired.
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Unread 07-05-2010, 10:02 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lautinjr View Post
I need to see the alignment print out but I would suspect the car may need front end work lower control arm buchings would be the first thing I would check. The bolt won't affect the pull but a alignment should be done at least once a year
Ok sounds like I should jack the car up and check for play.
I did get a new draglink and control arm before that last alignment.
I have red it could also have to do with things like a bad coil spring steering
Box or as you said bushing play as bumps do make it pull over a bit quicker.
I almost want to think its the steering wheel thatís off as if the top of the wheel
Was 12 o clock I have to hold it at 10 o clock to go straight.

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Unread 07-05-2010, 10:17 PM   #6
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Wait...this thing got a steering box or rack and pinion? It's old enough...it could have either one.


If it has a box the box is likely out of adjustment and/or the pitman arm isn't installed right.
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Unread 07-05-2010, 10:20 PM   #7
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Quote:
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Wait...this thing got a steering box or rack and pinion? It's old enough...it could have either one.


If it has a box the box is likely out of adjustment and/or the pitman arm isn't installed right.
LOL ya no rack and pinion for this old girl

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Unread 07-05-2010, 10:24 PM   #8
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Then have the steering box adjusted. Should straighten that wheel right out.
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My rigs:

1985 Ford F150 | 4x2 | 300ci OHV inline six | 4-speed OD manual | 310K | No power brakes | Running 100% - It hasn't driven this good in 15 years!

1984 Ford F150 | 4x2 | 300ci six | granny four | 3.55 rear end | 210K | Brakes shot. Rear drums are doing most of the work. Not fit to drive due to that.
1997 Ford Explorer XLT | 4.0L Vulcan V6 | 5-speed automatic | shift-on-the-fly 4WD | 210,000 miles | Running 95% - Needs brakes on all four corners + bald tires
1989 Ford F150 | 300cid six...again | 5-speed | 4x4 | 160K | Needs brakes done as well. Oi!

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Unread 07-05-2010, 10:34 PM   #9
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Quote:
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Then have the steering box adjusted. Should straighten that wheel right out.
Ive never had to do a lot with steering but is this something I could do my self???

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Unread 07-05-2010, 10:41 PM   #10
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Actually...if you have the right tools and a knowledgeable buddy to help, quite easily.

Not sure about your box, but to adjust the one on my Ford I have to remove the pitman arm. This is to allow you to recenter it afterwards, if that didn't get removed the wheel would remain ****ed off to one side like yours is. After that it's a simple matter of loosening the lock nut, removing the horn pad, attaching a torque wrench to the steering wheel, then turning the adjustment screw while checking the reading on that torque wrench. Then you just put everything back together, ensuring the tires and steering wheel all point as straight ahead as possible when you reinstall the pitman arm.
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My rigs:

1985 Ford F150 | 4x2 | 300ci OHV inline six | 4-speed OD manual | 310K | No power brakes | Running 100% - It hasn't driven this good in 15 years!

1984 Ford F150 | 4x2 | 300ci six | granny four | 3.55 rear end | 210K | Brakes shot. Rear drums are doing most of the work. Not fit to drive due to that.
1997 Ford Explorer XLT | 4.0L Vulcan V6 | 5-speed automatic | shift-on-the-fly 4WD | 210,000 miles | Running 95% - Needs brakes on all four corners + bald tires
1989 Ford F150 | 300cid six...again | 5-speed | 4x4 | 160K | Needs brakes done as well. Oi!

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