Speedster159

Sure, pics will be up when i get it out of the garage, the other cars are blocking the way out... and i need to take the Lancer to do some repairs.

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elemein

If you absolutely need to improve on the 1.3L carb, then there is a few performance upgrades you can do, but in all honesty, you will not get any astronomical power out of it for two reasons mainly; It's 1.3L (you know the engine in the Suzuki Swift that gets 50mpg? Yeah. That engine pulls more power. Embarassed yet? It's also 1.3L), and it's carburated (Again. Back to the Suzuki Swift 1.3L... It's also Fuel Injected. YES a ****ty econobox without an option of power windows in any of it's years actually can have a crapton more power. Sorry to say ^^' )

If you plan on getting the AE101 engine within less than a year (or even a year or just over really...) then forget upgrading this engine. Also, which AE101 engine are we talking about? The 4A-FE? the 4A-F? 4A-GE?

I assume you mean the 4A-FE as you mentioned 1.6L, which, on its own, only produces 113 HP. The thing is, it's fuel injected and has a nice bit of tuning potential, far more than your 1.3L which produces 64-82hp (? Verification please, you didnt specify engine model)

So what can you do with it?

Well there is virtually nothing you can do to the ECU to give it more power, seeing as the ECU isnt anywhere near as programmable as an ECU in an EFI car than in a carb car, also, if the engine was built before 1996 (I assume it was as there wasnt really any carb cars being sold after '86), your ECU is even MORE restricted as it doesnt have OBD-2, meaning Toyota couldve just plain said "Screw you. You dont get into the ECU. Have fun crying about it.", thing is, thats exactly what they did before 1996 before the government said "Lawlk, EVERY DAMN CAR better be user programmable now. ". In which case I say GO NORTH AMERICAN GOVERNMENT!!

Anyway, ECU is off limits, increasing your fuel system is mostly off-limites too (unless you want to bore out the carburator which DOES increase the power-bend throughout, but also isnt variable at all, sucks fuel economy lower and lower the bigger the bore, and also, if you make a mistake boring it out, there is no "undo". The carb is garbage now, gotta get a new carburator. )

You can also upgrade the intake manifold. Cold Air Intake, A more free-flowing intake, a non-metal intake, or a short ram intake can all lead to performance boosts. Nothing astronomical, but it's pretty cheap, and you can install it yourself, and yes, the power IS there.

K&N Air Filter? Everyone agrees that they're golden for 50$.

I wouldnt touch the exhaust, except adding a super ricy-fart can to it to complete the "I'm a riceburner" look of your car. The engine only puts out 1.3L, you could pretty much have a literal straw as your exhaust pipe and the engine would have gobs of low end torque. Just be thankful that it isnt a straw

You could also dig deep into your pockets and pick out a supercharger or turbocharger, the 1.3L can INDEED handle it. Actually, most Toyota engines can handle anything you throw at them; one of their weakest engines in terms of reliability is the 4E line of engines as most of them used timing belts instead of the usual timing chain. They were used in the Toyota Tercel.
Does that look unreliable to you? Didnt think so. If you need power out of the 1.3l, then forced induction is your best friend, dont worry, the engine CAN indeed take it.

Also, just gonna throw out the obvious stuff here. Nitrous Oxide? Yeah. You already know this stuff and I dont need to explain it.

Also, you could just BUILD the engine itself, forge the pistons, the block, gasket heads, cylinder heads, etc. etc. Strengthen those valve springs, and throw in some more forced induction or nitrous oxide (building the engine without adding either forced induction or nitrous isnt really going to add much power to the car. Just durability really.)

You could also swap the engine. That was already mentioned a lot though.

Other than that, performance wise, your absolute best, cheap, and easy bet is to just lighten the car. Ever heard of the Suzuki Cappucino? (I love this car almost as much as I love the Impreza WRX STi. My fav :3) It has a 0.657L I3 engine making 64 horsepower. Wanna guess it's 0-60? 8 seconds. That isnt mind-blowing, but its 64 horsepower. Stock. Less than 10 grand. In a rear-wheel drive. Wanna know how it achieves this? (besides a snappy transmission... Which you dont really have much of an option of upgrading in your Corolla) It only weighs 1,598 pounds. So if that isnt motivation enough to lighten your Corolla, I dont know what is.

I hope I helped and didnt mislead you somewhere D:

Speedster159

Well i'm too lazy to take a pic right now.. (Middle of the night) and SLR.

This is how it kinda looks like...


I quote from wikipedia "1.3 L 2E inline-four (petrol) 72 hp (54 kW) 72 lb·ft (98 N·m)"

I have the C150 Tranny.

So any ideas on what i can do with the engine to make it in theory "Faster"

Performance spark plug? Performance Spark plug wires? And how in the world am i going to use a 3rd party intake on that thing?

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Mike

He just told you how to make it faster.....

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"He shouted: 'You've won! Didn't you know?' I didn't, and it's about the nicest thing I've ever been told" -Bruce McLaren, 1968 Belgian Grand Prix

BULLATTACK

Throw on one of these Holley Performance Products 1250 CFM Four Barrel Dominator Carburetor*0-80532-1

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Speedster159

He did... i just want abit more input, and how imma use a 3rd party intake.

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EricM9104

This is where your imagination comes into play. Custom fab one,.

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Speedster159

The stock intake is flat for a reason, that means little space between the intake and the hood, so how am i going to overcome that?

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elemein

No, it is NOT flat for a reason. It is simply close to the hood because thats where they decided to stick it (a very stupid decision by Toyota actually, seeing as hot air rises. How odd, Toyota is usually better at these things. Though they did put the intake away from the engine. Thats good.) An intake is an intake. It is a metal tube used to transport air from one place to another. Whether it is a pretzel, touching the ground, or 52 feet away from the car; its job is still the exact same.

Know what a Cold Air Intake does? Lets decipher its name.

Cold Air Intake.

Alright, an intake transports air from one place to another, and-- wait! It mentioned air in the name too! COLD air that is!! So what this intake does is take cold air from one place and transports it to the engine!

This is where your imagination comes in. There are very few intakes you can buy these days brand new for a 1.3 Carburated intake; though the good thing is, it is very easy to fabricate on yourself since there isnt any need for MAF Sensor or MAP Sensors as it is carburated.

So what is an intake essentially? A tube.

Thats all? Yes.

So why are some intakes all fancy with rubber, metal, MAF Sensors, and MAP Sensors? Metal is more resilient, and sturdy. Its common to have stock, but isnt good for performance as metal conducts heat. Rubber is usually for cold air intake, used instead of metal to prevent rusting, and rubber doesnt conduct heat as well as metal. It is also more expensive, harder to manufacture in the factory, and more costlier to make since it's synthetic.

In fuel-injected engines, MAF Sensors and MAP Sensors monitor pressure and masses of air so that the fuel pump & injector & fuel rail know exactly HOW MUCH fuel to shoot in. Your car probably doesnt have it; but it might (though it wouldnt serve any purpose, more so just to monitor things).

So where does your creativity come in to play?

The part where you MAKE your own intake. YES. MAKE. WITH YOUR OWN HANDS.

My ricer cousin made his cold air intake out of the aluminum tubing from the back of a laundry machine. It isnt ideal, but hey, it is better than stock. (I wouldnt reccomend this route You can do better with more than 5$, cant you?) Just to give you an example of how ghetto this can get.

Lets start with the most important aspect of an intake; position. Where does cold air usually build up?

Closer to the ground. Cold air descends, hot air rises. Simple science, so we're going to put your intake closer to the ground, but not too close so that we dont hydrolock the engine when it rains! And away from the engine! Engine = Heat; heat = bad for intake! Cold air is denser! Denser air = better to burn. Better to burn = More Power!

Now what do we make it out of? Wood is a stupid idea. I need'nt say why. Metal is better; its sturdy and resilient, but absorbs heat from the engine and rusts over time. Rubber is ideal, but expensive, and harder to find, but if you do manage to find it, thats great! Cloth is least ideal. It absorbs heat, and is the BEST material if you want to hydrolock your engine. Cloth absorbs water. BADDD idea.

Electronics? None. Your engine is carburated. Unless your intake has sensors attached to the stock ones (it shouldnt), dont worry about adding extra do-dads to it.

Also, dont forget to fit your filter on the end of it. VERY IMPORTANT.

And thats all for intakes. Do NOT think they will add even 10 HP to your engine. You'll probably only get a good steady 4 HP if everything goes well and you use good materials and placement. I dont know why so many people spend 200+ money on intakes when it really is so meager in advantages. It provides better throttle response (only slighty), and a more torquey pull (only slightly), and low power upgrades (only slightly). Dont know what all the rage is about.

You mentioned performance spark plugs? Yes. Those will defintely add power (again, only slightly.), but do NOT forget to upgrade your ignition coils, and make sure your distributor (if your engine has one) is 1oo% in good condition. Your ignition system is only as good as your weakest link, so make sure its all good.

sP00N

CAI's are a bit overrated. Want to get some increased performance while not spending a dime? EASY! Just remove the intake snorkel: (circled in the pic below)

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