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#11 | |||
Hammond Hand Luggage
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Chicago IL
Posts: 2,704
Rep: 61
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#12 |
Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 47
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![]() dam I might have got bad spark plugs then. I already bought them. I am looking to spend around 200-300$ tops, but its not written in stone, like if you can convince me that its worth spending 1000$ then I will, but right now I want easy tricks to increase power without much money. So for the spark plugs I got Champion Iradium I think Federal Mogul is the company that makes it but it might be Champion. I just asked the guy at Canadian tire which were good and he said these, but I guess I shouldn't have done that. As for installing them its safe to do my self right? Just unplug, unscrew, put in the new ones, torque to about the same pressure, and keep it clean right? I am a bit iffy about the k&n filter now, do you think it will increase power/fuel at all? Seems to be mixed opinions.
So for the full air intake, how does that work? Doesn't it need that scoop in the hood? Will I need a new hood as well? Last edited by Sayshell; 11-30-2011 at 07:59 PM. |
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#13 |
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Dallas, OR
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![]() You are talking minimal gains that aren't really cost effective. Just wanna say it.
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2001 Tahoe LT Autoride w/ third seat +25hp ![]() K&N air filter +50hp ![]() Custom Radio +15hp ![]() Soon to buy: Exhaust +50hp ![]() Lowering kit (2") +30hp ![]() |
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#14 | |||
Hammond Hand Luggage
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Chicago IL
Posts: 2,704
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A filter itself is kinda useless, you won't feel the difference. Spark plugs are safe to do yourself, all you need is a spark plug socket of the correct size, an extension, and a ratchet. You need to pick up some dialectric grease for the plug boot, and there's another one for the threads of the spark plug (anti-seze) so the plug doesn't weld itself into the head. and what you said is pretty much spot on.
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#15 | |
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Mississauga, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 385
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No, there is no fixed thoughts on the K&N Air Filter, there are mixed thoughts on its effectiveness, but there is a general consensus that it will help you, just a mixed consensus on how much it'll help you. Either way, it'll help in both fuel economy and power, just not a lot ![]() Also yes, it is safe to do it yourself (spark plug installation). Dont forget to unplug the wires too though, (you should've bought new ones though; your ignition system is only as strong as it's weakest link. But the new plugs are not useless without new wires, they just wont be as full potential as they could) and theres some other stuff to do, but I am not gonna detail it all in writing, so googling a tutorial or searching on Youtube should be more than fine. Also no, the "hood" thing you're thiking of is a hood scoop. 90% of hood scoops you see out on the road lead nowhere and are purely aesthetic. The other 10% are for function, they are NOT for the intake to get air from, it is actually to get air rushing into the intercooler that you'd have if you had a turbocharger or supercharger installed. Installing a new intake, you have three popular routes, either Short Ram Intake, a higher-flow intake manifold from your stock location, or a Cold Air Intake. They all have their benefits and shortcomings, but basicly; Short Ram Pros: More power on inital throttle, very aggressive sound, lower weight due to smaller physical measurements Short Ram Cons: Sucks in hot air close to the engine, and hot air is bad for power. Filter gets dirty quicker Stock-Location High Intake Manifold Pros: About the same response, temperature, and location as the stock box. Just better response in higher RPMs due to the ability to take in more air at one time. Stock-Location High Intake Manifold Cons: It's heavier. Bigger physical dimensions. Can be more expensive than Short Ram Cold Air Intake Pros: Ideal location for power as it gets air from below the engine and lower to the ground (cold air descends), which is good for power. Cold Air Intake Cons: Heaviest. Most expensive. And also, cluffenstein is right, you should tune the ECU after every set of upgrades. Preferably by a mechanic. Also, I'm pretty sure those are the pros and cons of all the intake types, though dont quote me on them, a lot of people would argue with that, though it is a widely argumented topic. Edit: Maybe he should just do the transmission reworking or weight reduction. They're both less complicated and cheaper than a low cost power upgrade. It's hard to get 15 HP out of a Ford Focus engine with as few units as possible for a low budget. It hard to do it with any four-cylinder as the upgrades you make will either be minimal, or overshoot 15 HP by far. Last edited by elemein; 11-30-2011 at 09:18 PM. |
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#16 | ||
Hammond Hand Luggage
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Chicago IL
Posts: 2,704
Rep: 61
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![]() As to the K&N Vs Entire intake. I've had both in my focus (granted the intake stayed in only a night) and the intake had a marked performance increase (according to my butt dyno) over the filter, but that's given... I hope...
Here's the two easiest things you can do for a 10+ Hp increase 20 HP $460 Header (with flex pipe and extension (necessary) $450 Exhaust (Stealth) + $81 for shipping = 990.29 (Actual cost) This will make your focus INSANELY loud.. Like This loud Or the easier way: 12ish HP $379 Tune $200 Intake +17.20 shipping = 596.20 (actual cost)
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#17 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Mississauga, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 385
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![]() Obviously the intake will have more performance than the filter. The filter is just a part of the intake after all. But saying it's useless is just plain wrong. It wont be a night and day difference, but it's not useless. I just threw it in there because it's quite cheap, helps gas mileage, and is reusable which is nice over the paper air filters.
Also. Please choose route 2 with some weight reduction. Taking out sound deadening can really add up to quite a bit of weight. Just giving the car a good clean overall from bottom to top with a vacuum and polish and throwing out every last bit of unnecessary crap and throw off a few kg in total. Changing your seats with lightweight seats can help a bit. Everything adds up. Please dont do route 1. It's more expensive and the loud sound is so ricer. Which is bad. |
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#18 | ||
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Dallas, OR
Posts: 2,930
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And watching that Video is painful. I need to put up a video of my Volvo
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2001 Tahoe LT Autoride w/ third seat +25hp ![]() K&N air filter +50hp ![]() Custom Radio +15hp ![]() Soon to buy: Exhaust +50hp ![]() Lowering kit (2") +30hp ![]() Last edited by KSIMP88; 12-01-2011 at 12:27 AM. |
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#19 | |||
Hammond Hand Luggage
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Chicago IL
Posts: 2,704
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Yes it's loud, yes it's a cop magnet, but oh well. The final cost (according to the fswerks shopping cart was 990.29). For the focus at least, there are no cheap WORTHWHILE upgrades. Honestly, just go stuff a turbo in it and call it a day.
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#20 | ||
Hammond Hand Luggage
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Chicago IL
Posts: 2,704
Rep: 61
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![]() Oh and elemein, There's not a whole lot of sound deadening in a focus. At least not that I saw when I worked on mine.
And seats are about 750-800 a pair (sometimes each) plus 150 for each rail. That's really not a worthwhile upgrade, and at least in IL their illegal. (Something about the seatbelt)
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