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Unread 06-26-2012, 04:42 PM   #1
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Default Help me out? Question about oil

I'm switching to a synthetic and I'm trying to decide between Castrol Edge and Mobile 1, which would you guys recommend?

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Unread 06-26-2012, 05:00 PM   #2
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Either is good, just pick the cheapest one.
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Unread 06-26-2012, 06:13 PM   #3
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Valvaline Synthetic test show much better wear protection. I used to use Mobil 1 never had a issue, but Prefer Valvoline no after learning ore about there product line up.
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Unread 06-26-2012, 10:36 PM   #4
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I'm quite fond of Valvoline and Havoline myself.
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Unread 06-29-2012, 05:46 PM   #5
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Ive got to agree with car guy here. All major brand oil manufacturers make a great product, and they all have their pro and cons. But the pros and cons between them are very insignificant for an average car in normal driving conditions.

My suggestion would be to buy what ever fits the budget, as long as its a quality company, Mobil, valvoline, havoline, castrol, royal purple, redline...etc

Also, something that is over looked very often is the oil filter its self. A cheap filter wont do a very good job filtering out contaminates and has a higher possibility of failing.

Ive posted this thread before, and it has a lot of very good, unbiased information in it about just oil filters. The second post goes into great detail with many common filters. Have a look.

I personally run Wix or Mobile1 filters in all my vehicles because they a good quality at a good price.

Read through!
http://www.supramania.com/forums/sho...al-Oil-Filters
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Unread 06-29-2012, 08:56 PM   #6
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Walmart is truly the place to get oil. Nice and cheap 5 quart jugs. I just changed the oil on my mom's car and Castrol was like $26 which is a steal. If you are too lazy to leave Walmart and buy a better filter, my mom and dad are both running the Fram Xtended Guard filters and they seem to work alright. Pbasil's link touched on the filter which is the only Fram worth using, but still doesn't compare to the Champion sourced filters. Still I think its under $8 which is a bit cheaper than the better filters.
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Unread 06-30-2012, 10:37 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbasil1 View Post

Also, something that is over looked very often is the oil filter its self. A cheap filter wont do a very good job filtering out contaminates and has a higher possibility of failing.

Ive posted this thread before, and it has a lot of very good, unbiased information in it about just oil filters. The second post goes into great detail with many common filters. Have a look.

I personally run Wix or Mobile1 filters in all my vehicles because they a good quality at a good price.

I recommend this link as well. Oil Filters Revealed - MiniMopar Resources


As for my engines? Motorcraft FL-1A. It's a purolator inside, it fits everything, and it's available at pretty much anywhere that sells oil change stuff.


Quote:
Originally Posted by BULLATTACK View Post
Walmart is truly the place to get oil. Nice and cheap 5 quart jugs. I just changed the oil on my mom's car and Castrol was like $26 which is a steal.
This is true if you use a standard viscosity. I'm using 15W40 and Walmart just simply doesn't have that in a fully synthetic. Nobody seems to. I had to use 10W40 last change, and when I change it again it's getting 20W50 since that's more readily available.

Quote:
If you are too lazy to leave Walmart and buy a better filter, my mom and dad are both running the Fram Xtended Guard filters and they seem to work alright. Pbasil's link touched on the filter which is the only Fram worth using, but still doesn't compare to the Champion sourced filters. Still I think its under $8 which is a bit cheaper than the better filters.
I disagree on the Xtended Guard. It may not be so shoddily built that it will actively kill your engine like the rest of their lineup, but it's still a fram. It's still going to drop your oil pressure and clog up in about a thousand miles or so.
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1984 Ford F150 | 4x2 | 300ci six | granny four | 3.55 rear end | 210K | Brakes shot. Rear drums are doing most of the work. Not fit to drive due to that.
1997 Ford Explorer XLT | 4.0L Vulcan V6 | 5-speed automatic | shift-on-the-fly 4WD | 210,000 miles | Running 95% - Needs brakes on all four corners + bald tires
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Unread 06-30-2012, 03:01 PM   #8
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Ever since I discovered K&N filters I won't use anything else. It's worth the extra ~$5 to have that nut on the end in case it gets stuck. Plus on my Katana I can barely even get my hand through the header to reach it.
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Unread 06-30-2012, 07:26 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kenny McCormick View Post

I disagree on the Xtended Guard. It may not be so shoddily built that it will actively kill your engine like the rest of their lineup, but it's still a fram. It's still going to drop your oil pressure and clog up in about a thousand miles or so.
I've installed thousands of Frams never seen one fail or damage a engine. I do agee they are a crap filter, but no worse then any off brand filter used at any quick lube in america.
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Unread 07-01-2012, 01:46 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lautinjr View Post
I've installed thousands of Frams never seen one fail or damage a engine. I do agee they are a crap filter, but no worse then any off brand filter used at any quick lube in america.

Google around, you'll find plenty of cases where frams have shed parts of their element and clogged oil passages. My friend lost the head gaskets on his 3.8L V6 because of one coming apart. Blocked some of the galleys feeding oil to the heads, caused them to starve for lube and get hot, which them warped them, and then that cooked the gaskets. The shop pulled bits of FRAM out of the oil passages when they repaired the engine. Most of their lineup uses cardboard end-caps, and I'm sorry but cardboard end caps are not capable of surviving contact with 240 motor oil very well. The majority of them come apart to some degree, cut one open and you'll see pleats that have come unglued, something you don't usually see with literally every other brand on the market...and, oddly enough, their Xtended Guard filters as well, since those use metal end caps like everyone else in the industry.


Even when they don't come apart at the seams they drop your oil pressure by a scary amount. I have a feeling that if I put a Fram on my '85 it'd start knocking simply because of how poorly those things flow. It's already preciously low on oil PSI at idle as it is.

They also clog and go onto bypass within 1,000-1,500 miles due to how little filter media they have, little more than half of the media their competition uses, which defeats the purpose of even having an oil filter in the first place.


You couldn't pay me enough to use a Fram on an engine I wasn't intentionally blowing up in the next couple of hours, and I'd flat refuse to install them on customer's cars if I worked in a shop that put me on oil changes. I'd put purolators or wixes on, even if I had to cover the difference out of my own pocket.
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My rigs:

1985 Ford F150 | 4x2 | 300ci OHV inline six | 4-speed OD manual | 310K | No power brakes | Running 100% - It hasn't driven this good in 15 years!

1984 Ford F150 | 4x2 | 300ci six | granny four | 3.55 rear end | 210K | Brakes shot. Rear drums are doing most of the work. Not fit to drive due to that.
1997 Ford Explorer XLT | 4.0L Vulcan V6 | 5-speed automatic | shift-on-the-fly 4WD | 210,000 miles | Running 95% - Needs brakes on all four corners + bald tires
1989 Ford F150 | 300cid six...again | 5-speed | 4x4 | 160K | Needs brakes done as well. Oi!

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