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Unread 05-01-2012, 01:14 PM   #1
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Default T-RX7, 85' FB GSL 12a

Gonna start a build thread for the FB since I am kinda starting to have some time to work on it.



So I have a list of things I want to get done.

1. Replace the stock Nikki 4-barrel carburetor.
2. Finish making an aluminum dash that has all the instruments facing directly towards me.
3. Get all the instruments I need to put in the dash and wire them up.
4. Re-wire the entire car with my own custom harness.
5. Fix the oil pan leak (it needs to be taken off, old gasket cleaned, and a new one put in its place, done right this time)
6. Re-inforce the clamps I made to hold the pop-up light housings down
7. Replace the windshield
8. Replace the rest of the windows that are glass with plastic.


I dug through all the parts that were sold along with the car (both front fenders, spare glass back hatch, crap load of tires, 3 sets of rims including stockers, case of Idemitsu pre-mix, bits and pieces, spare carb) and I pulled out the spare carb.

I went to ID it and all it had on it was Mikuni so I went and googled Mikuni carburetors and got a LOT of results. Luckily I found a site that helped me ID the carb and with the aid of some pics and diagrams I concluded that it was a Mikuni PHH Type S5 2-barrel carburetor.

I did some more research and discovered that there were three PHH Type S5 carburetors, two aftermarket and one a stock feature on some engines. Mine is of course an aftermarket carb so knowing this I only looked at those. There were two designs, one with 40mm butterflys and one with 44mm butterflys. The way they are identified is by a number stamped on the back of the butterfly.

I broke down the carb part way to get a look and the # stamped was 275, indicating that this was a Mikuni PHH Type S5 44mm carburetor.

I googled again to find a gasket kit because I was gonna be opening this thing up and I had no idea how long it had been since it was opened. This combined with paper seals for sure meant I was gonna need a gasket and seal kit.

Upgrade Motoring had a kit for $26, which I got in yesterday. I have since found exploded views and part # lists of the PHH and identified all the seals and gaskets and where they go. The next step is to tear it down and get to cleaning until it's spotless, then put it all back together.

It was pretty clean on the inside. Luckily all the internals are in great shape and can be re-used so all I really needed was the gasket kit in the first place.

I recently bled the brake lines and put in some DOT 4 synthetic (vaccum bleeder ftw). The old stuff that came out was black and, voila, I have no more brake fade when they get hot.

I'll leave you guys with some pics and I'll get more when I get to rebuilding the carb.





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Unread 05-01-2012, 11:50 PM   #2
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Freshly rebuilt.

Not sure if it was supposed to but, the accelerator pump was full of oil. Dirty oil. One of the barrels had some oil in it too and it had accumulated behind the large venturi so I went ahead and broke down the entire thing to single pieces and cleaned everything, then replaced all the gaskets. I used the original copper and aluminum washers because they were in good condition and most of the o-rings as well.
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Unread 05-02-2012, 10:02 AM   #3
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Found some clips of 12a's with Mikuni 2-barrels on them.


Should sound like this when I am done.
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Unread 05-02-2012, 05:25 PM   #4
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It runs!!!! Not very well but it runs. Needs to be tuned obviously.

I am gonna need a new throttle cable. The stocker is too short and holds the throttle open.
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Unread 05-02-2012, 10:42 PM   #5
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Car looks nice and clean from the pictures. I wish my brother still had his RX7 fun car to drive.
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Unread 05-03-2012, 08:10 PM   #6
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Not too bad for a lawnmow-- I mean rotary engine, huh?

Sounds totally different. And has much greater throttle response at higher rpms, and it's not even tuned.
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Unread 05-07-2012, 11:45 AM   #7
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Awesome
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Unread 05-07-2012, 01:07 PM   #8
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Found out that swapping to a 2-barrel config basically knocks out my bottom end power and can easily bog down the engine unless you have really good throttle control.

Basically, I am gonna have to work on my throttle control if I dip below 3500RPM, but above 3500 it has increased power (and can later be increased further with a port job) and greater throttle response.





More reading revealed what the two ports circled in green above are. They are a pass-through for a cooling body assembly. Basically, it's nothing more than a heatsink that gets a return line run to it to pass fuel through the assembly to cool the carb. All the info I could find says people typically don't use it and instead just cap it off like I have.

The two things circles in red are supposed to be plugs, but clearly aren't plugs as they have a port on them. I am guessing someone was using this for something modified and put those there. No matter, they are capped off as well.
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Unread 05-10-2012, 06:48 PM   #9
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I took it for a sneaky little drive on the road.

She runs great! There is a slight bit of hesitation when I shift but I think that's just a lack of weight from the return spring on the carb. I plan on adding some additional springs to help the throttle snap back to idle.

I also plan on installing an additional spring on the accelerator pedal so it requires so additional force to push down so I can rest my foot on the pedal. It is VERY sensitive at low RPMs at this point and the slightest bit past around 5% throttle will bog and kill the engine unless at 3500 RPM or higher.
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Unread 05-10-2012, 07:13 PM   #10
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Sweet, love the car man. Needs more pics though!

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