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Unread 09-30-2009, 12:15 PM   #1
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Default Help explain this to me

I have recently purchesed a 2010 Ford F-150 XLT...I need help in understanding how rims work and what size and all that stuff...I want to put 22" on it...Where do i start/what do i need to read?

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Unread 09-30-2009, 01:12 PM   #2
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Default will show you a whole bunch of different rims that will fit your car.

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Unread 09-30-2009, 02:34 PM   #3
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Rims are a touchy and complex subject. I'll do my best to explain it, but I'm no expert on either rims or linguistics. I'm just going by what I've learned over time about them.

22" is about as big as I'd even consider going. Realistically, I'd stay under 21" if I planned on driving it regularly. The reason is that your sidewalls do as much bump absorption as your suspension does, perhaps even more. On the stock truck, you have big and meaty sidewalls to take fairly large bumps. When you add larger rims, you would add shorter sidewalls. These shorter sidewalls are stiffer, thusly, more bumps get transmitted into the rim. Too thin a sidewall and the ride will be utter crap, and it may even prematurely wear things out. Up to a point, you'll gain handling, but there comes a time where the sidewalls are so thin that you lose that again too...tho with an F150, you'd need 24"s or bigger to hit that point.

So why not just get a larger tread diameter, you ask? Well, firstly, it throws the speedo off. That's the whole reason the sidewall shrinks as the rim diameter gets bigger, you're maintaining the same tread diameter. Secondly, it will negatively affect handling, being that the tires are heavier. It won't accelerate as well, it won't turn as well, and it won't stop as well. To top it off, they'll be expensive. Go too big and you'll run into fit problems with the suspension itself, and gearing issues(Overworked engine).

The larger rims will, obviously, have their own weight issues. They may be heavier than stock, they may be lighter, this is largely dependent on what the spoke patter is and what they're made of.

Unless you re-gear it, you don't want your tread diameter more than an inch larger or smaller than stock, and you'll need the speedo recalibrated if your tread diameter changes. I also suggest you try to maintain a 55 series tire, this will ensure you don't beat the suspension to pieces.

Now, do not think that I'm not saying outright "Don't get 22's". It's your truck, ultimtely it's your choice. I'm just telling you a few things that might affect your descision. I don't know how much you value the ride quality or handling, or if the sole reason you want big rims is the looks(In which case you'll probably disregard most of my post), I'm assuming you intend to drive it every day, that you intend to keep it at least untill it's paid off, and that you want to maintain as much resale value as you can.
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My rigs:

1985 Ford F150 | 4x2 | 300ci OHV inline six | 4-speed OD manual | 310K | No power brakes | Running 100% - It hasn't driven this good in 15 years!

1984 Ford F150 | 4x2 | 300ci six | granny four | 3.55 rear end | 210K | Brakes shot. Rear drums are doing most of the work. Not fit to drive due to that.
1997 Ford Explorer XLT | 4.0L Vulcan V6 | 5-speed automatic | shift-on-the-fly 4WD | 210,000 miles | Running 95% - Needs brakes on all four corners + bald tires
1989 Ford F150 | 300cid six...again | 5-speed | 4x4 | 160K | Needs brakes done as well. Oi!

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Unread 09-30-2009, 03:15 PM   #4
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Read up on offsets. I still don't understand them, but if you don't get it right your rims won't fit and tires will rub.
Family Cars: (Bold is mine).

1998 Nissan 200sx SE | i4 1.6L | 83,000 miles | Green | Running 100% |

1996 Nissan Sentra | i4 1.6L | 122,000 miles |Black |
2001 Nissan Maxima | V6 3.0L | 94,000 miles | Black |
2010 Toyota Camry | i4 2.5L | 5,500 miles | Silver |
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