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Unread 08-30-2012, 11:07 PM   #1
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Default Is my clutch going bad?

I have a 2000 Chevrolet s10 4 cylinder 5 speed with 148000 miles. The previouse owner had never replaced the clutch to my knowledge and I only recently suspected it of going bad in the last few weeks or so. It was making a somewhat soft grinding noise that I could also feel in the clutch pedal. I stopped driving it for two weeks but was rectory forced to put it back in action for school. I was surprised that the vibration/noise had stop completely but I know notice that my truck requires a little more power out of first and second to get going. I wanted to know if anybody had a diagnosis for this problem and if you have the time would be willing to layout a plan of attack to do my own repair. I'm broke so a shop is almost out of the equation. Unless my only experience with repairs in starter, AC, break/router is not near enough knowledge to replace a clutch or whatever it may be.

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Unread 08-30-2012, 11:35 PM   #2
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A bad clutch can show itself in different ways.

Slipping is the most common.

Usually you notice this when you are accelerating and up shifting on a hill or with a heavy load, even though the clutch is released you hear the engine rev but the truck isn't accelerating as quick as it should be. A quick shift into 4th and giving it gas will cause the engine to rev excessively. Don't encourage the slipping once you notice it.

In more severe cases the truck will be slow to accelerate from a standstill as the engine revs more than it usually does. At this point it will fail quickly and unexpectedly.

Clutches also can make noises, squeals and rattles.

Replacing a clutch isn't to complicated but it is fairly hard work and on the S10 bleeding the clutch is a bear without a reverse bleeder.
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Unread 08-31-2012, 05:26 AM   #3
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It could be. When my clutch went out I noticed the clutch didn't begin to pull the truck with any authority until the pedal was 3/4ths of the way off the floor. The engine also felt a bit soft, likely the clutch slipping ever so slightly. When I pulled it out I noticed it was just about down to the rivets.


The car I had before I got my F150 had a reaaaaaly bad case of slipping clutch. Powershifting caused it to slip for about 3-5 seconds, but the engine had all of 80HP.
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Unread 08-31-2012, 02:32 PM   #4
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Thanks everybody that really helps I'm going to do a little more research to see how much work it will take and probably go ahead and try doing it myself. I'll let you know what happens.

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Unread 08-31-2012, 04:30 PM   #5
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Shouldn't be too difficult, just time consuming. My suggestion: Get a buddy to help move the gearbox in and out, prop the truck up on four jackstands one per corner, and be sure to support the engine when you remove the transmission lest you damage the motor mounts.


Also don't open the clutch hydraulics if you don't have to. No clutch is easy to bleed. I'm not sure how the S10's release system is set up but my '85s has a small hydraulic cylinder that bolted to the side of the transmission. Simply unbolting it and setting it on the frame avoided having to break the system open, you may also be able to do this.
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My rigs:

1985 Ford F150 | 4x2 | 300ci OHV inline six | 4-speed OD manual | 310K | No power brakes | Running 100% - It hasn't driven this good in 15 years!

1984 Ford F150 | 4x2 | 300ci six | granny four | 3.55 rear end | 210K | Brakes shot. Rear drums are doing most of the work. Not fit to drive due to that.
1997 Ford Explorer XLT | 4.0L Vulcan V6 | 5-speed automatic | shift-on-the-fly 4WD | 210,000 miles | Running 95% - Needs brakes on all four corners + bald tires
1989 Ford F150 | 300cid six...again | 5-speed | 4x4 | 160K | Needs brakes done as well. Oi!

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Unread 08-31-2012, 05:05 PM   #6
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The clutch is difficult to bleed on his S10. He will need to carefully separate the line from the slave cylinder using a small screwdriver to release the clip. He will most likely need a reverse bleeder and perform some undocumented procedures to get all the air out.

Without a reverse bleeder it is hit or miss whether he will get enough air out to make it drivable.
It is possible to use a large plastic syringe and bleed it with that.

The bleeder is recessed in a hole in the bell housing.


I recommend brazing a piece of 3/16" brake line tubing into the bleeder to extend it and to provide a connection for a bleeding hose.


The reverse bleed it.


The clutch master has to be detached from the firewall to finish the bleeding.


You can find the Phoenix brake bleeder online for about $80

I have heard of many guys bleeding for days trying everything they know to bleed the clutch. I did it with this bleeder in about 5 minutes.

Using the reverse bleeder
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Last edited by Mr Car Guy; 08-31-2012 at 05:12 PM.

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Unread 08-31-2012, 05:28 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Car Guy View Post
The clutch is difficult to bleed on his S10. He will need to carefully separate the line from the slave cylinder using a small screwdriver to release the clip.

Does he though? I was able to change my clutch without opening the hydraulic circuit at all. I just unbolted the slave cylinder from the side of the transmission and hung it out of the way. You haven't confirmed either way whether or not that's possible on the S10, and if he can do so he should.
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My rigs:

1985 Ford F150 | 4x2 | 300ci OHV inline six | 4-speed OD manual | 310K | No power brakes | Running 100% - It hasn't driven this good in 15 years!

1984 Ford F150 | 4x2 | 300ci six | granny four | 3.55 rear end | 210K | Brakes shot. Rear drums are doing most of the work. Not fit to drive due to that.
1997 Ford Explorer XLT | 4.0L Vulcan V6 | 5-speed automatic | shift-on-the-fly 4WD | 210,000 miles | Running 95% - Needs brakes on all four corners + bald tires
1989 Ford F150 | 300cid six...again | 5-speed | 4x4 | 160K | Needs brakes done as well. Oi!

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Unread 08-31-2012, 05:38 PM   #8
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The slave cylinder on his truck is located inside the bell housing, he must disconnect it to remove the transmission. He should also replace the slave when he does the clutch, it sucks to have to pull the transmission a few months later to do it.

It's the earlier S10's that had the slave outside, at some time around 1995 the slave was moved inside.
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Unread 08-31-2012, 07:16 PM   #9
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ahh. Ford did the same thing around '87 I think.
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Tired Iron ain't got no time to wear out...

My rigs:

1985 Ford F150 | 4x2 | 300ci OHV inline six | 4-speed OD manual | 310K | No power brakes | Running 100% - It hasn't driven this good in 15 years!

1984 Ford F150 | 4x2 | 300ci six | granny four | 3.55 rear end | 210K | Brakes shot. Rear drums are doing most of the work. Not fit to drive due to that.
1997 Ford Explorer XLT | 4.0L Vulcan V6 | 5-speed automatic | shift-on-the-fly 4WD | 210,000 miles | Running 95% - Needs brakes on all four corners + bald tires
1989 Ford F150 | 300cid six...again | 5-speed | 4x4 | 160K | Needs brakes done as well. Oi!

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